Sail Away at Thalassa

ENewton
December 15, 2010

When my teeth broke through the amuse bouche’s crisp phyllo cone into creamy tuna mouse I thought I was in for one of those meals you feel a little guilty about having on a weekday. Food this good in such a transporting space” seemingly mile-high ceilings, flowing white fabric echoing the sails of Mediterranean boat, flickering candlelight is only for weekends, right?

Not at Thalassa in Tribeca where as my meal went on I realized that Executive Chef Ralpheal Abrahante’s finesse with exceptionally fresh ingredients, especially seafood, definitely makes for a special meal, but not one that should wait for a special occasion. The food is bright, flavorful, and unlike some of the city’s less-ambitious Greek restaurants, makes you feel like you’re floating on the Ionian Sea.

One of Thalassa’s ambitions seems to be elevating traditional Greek dishes by adding subtle surprises. Take for example the snapper entree, a special on the night I was there. A light pistachio and cheese crust gave every bite a wonderful richness of textures and flavor. So did a hint of saffron. But what really surprised me were the Brussels sprouts nestled around the snapper. Tis the season for those little cabbages that added an earthiness to the perfectly balanced dish.

Another surprise on the menu: veal in the dolmas. The ubiquitous stuffed grape leaves often have lamb in their rice fillings. After trying the veal adaptation you’ll be wondering why veal isn’t used more, or even be inspired to make some yourself.

The other fish dish I tried was the simpler” but no less as memorable” grilled Branzino. Chef Abrahante dressed it with olive oil, lemon, and oregano to let the naturally delicious fish speak for itself. The result: a freshness that had me wondering if the fish on my plate was one of the ones I saw in the impeccable ice display at the end of the marble bar as I walked in.

One of the must-have dishes is the grilled octopus appetizer (look for Portugese Octapodi on the menu) with micro organic greens, olive oil, and red wine vinaigrette. The texture is wildly spot-on” tender, not chewy, but with a satisfying give as you bite.

For dessert-enthusiasts, the galaktobouriko, a baklava-esk pastry with citrus custard and drizzled honey, is a fine ending.

The restaurant, which opened eight years ago and is known for its incredible wine selection, is the place to explore Greek wine. Many of the bottles chilling out in the expansive wine room are boutique picks available by the glass.

For a little taste of Thalassa at home, try out Chef Ralpheal Abrahante Pistachio Crusted Mediterranean Sea Bass Recipe

Thalassa is located at 179 Franklin Street In New York City 212-941-7661 (Between Greenwich and Hudson Streets).

#1 Train to Franklin Street. Walk west one and a half blocks.