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Review White And Church New York

  • Blanca Valbuena
  • October 10, 2011

I was invited by Susan Rike along with five other food writers to dine at White and Church. Having been away from the states for quite a while, I was looking forward to the new and exciting restaurants that had opened up in NYC. I am thankful to say that White and Church did not disappoint.

The space is small. Upon entering one goes up a small set of stairs into the small but comfortable dining room. To the right is a bar, ahead a projector screen which was showing Fellini movies and the tables were clean and modern with a rustic touch.

I arrived early and sat at the bar with Susan and Chef-Owner Matteo Boglione. I took the opportunity to ask him a few questions about the place. The restaurant sits on the old stomping grounds of Chef Boglione’s Il Matto. He explained that the menu here would be more approachable but just as seriously thought out.

Our first course was stuffed green olives. We were off to a good start. The olives were lightly fried and delicately stuffed with pork, veal and pistachio mortadella ($8). Upon the first bite a pleasant squirt of brine hit my tongue. This salty deliciousness was contrasted by the light breading. The pistachio flavor from the mortadella was subtle but added complexity. This course was paired with a chardonnay from Friuli; the wine tasted like lemonade up front with a crisp finish. A lovely pairing.

The second course was the Pecorino creme brulee.  This delightful dish could have worked as either an appetizer or dessert. The creme brulee came with the most gorgeous bread, a red onion marmalade and a balsamic reduction. The top was thin, sweet, and ready for cracking. The cheese was just pungent enough to contrast the sweetness and I must admit that it was quite difficult not to lick the ramekin ($11).

I was not expecting to see an avocado salad at an Italian restaurant. However, the execution of this dish was purely Tuscan. Included in the dish was a piece of cauliflower. It almost stole the show. It was perfectly al dente; just to the point where it gave the teeth a bit of a fight, but eventually yielded to the bite. Did I mention that it was laced with truffles? There was also a slice of buffalo mozzarella which had a slight rind to its border. It was salty and fresh. Finally I got to the avocado. It was topped with a truffle shaving which somehow worked. The avocado was slightly chocolatey and the result was creamy and scrumptious.

The fried polenta came next ($7). It was nice; perhaps not as nice as the other dishes but still carried out properly. It was touched with salt which enhanced the flavor; and accompanied by a Parmigiano cheese fondue.

I fell in love with the artichoke croquettes ($12). They were served on a bed of saffron sauce and escorted by burrata cheese topped with black truffle shavings (I think you can see a theme here). The artichokes were tender, aromatic and flavorful. I could easily have eaten 10 of these in one sitting. The burrata was pretty, but unnecessary; the artichokes could easily stand alone in this dish.

To continue the flavor palate; Chef Boglione prepared a burrata cheese ravioli in a black truffle sauce ($18). The ravioli was balanced with just the right touch of umami. The pasta felt great on the teeth and on the tongue. I would not hesitate to order this dish.

Review White And Church New YorkThe final course was the steak tagliata ($20). The quality of the beef was excellent; flavorful and tender. The steak was perfectly cooked. The veal jus begged for bread or rice or some other conductive device. There was also a lovely pearl onion that added a touch of sweetness. Another excellent course.

I was thrilled that my first work meal back was this delicious. I had just come back from Europe and was horribly jet lagged; so I skipped on wine for the evening. It is worth noting that the restaurant has a great wine list. I did take a sip of their “Breakfast Martini”. If this cocktail is representative of their other libations; they are off to a great start.

Highly Recommended  

White and Church is located at 281 Church St. Tribeca New York City, NY 10013  (212) 226-1607 (two blocks from the 1 train) 

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