Tokyo: The New Dining Haven
Well, as far as the Michelin 2011 Guide is concerned, Tokyo tops the list with restaurants awarded the three stars. It doesn’t really come as a surprise. The country does have this mythical quality in their cooking that makes them quite the attraction for many a food connoisseur. One bite of their exquisite dishes and you’re certainly in gastronomic heaven.
Of course, it doesn’t come without the usual drama of conspiracy and bias. And why not? Tokyo is now on the same level with France when it comes to the city with the most number of three-star restaurants. So naturally, the French are fuming. Who gave the tire company the right to say that some far-off Asian country is at par with the bastion of good cooking?
Frankly, the Michelin inspectors have a very good reason for being generous. After all, the Japanese has a very deep-seated culture of quality dining. From the simple grilling of beef chunks, to the intricate slicing of tuna slices, the Japanese are very attentive to freshness and detail.
Take for example the students of Tsuji Culinary Institute, the elite school of cooking in Japan. Before they get to slice anything, they have to learn how to stand in the kitchen and on the proper handling of the knife. And until they have learned how to cut vegetables correctly, to the smallest millimetre, they are not going to cook anything basic at all. That’s how focused they can be on cooking.
Aside from learning the fine art of cooking, Japanese chefs in Tokyo have their own quirks that they claim aids them in the cooking. Take Jiro Ono, the chef and owner of the famous Sukiyabashi Jiro. The Michelin guide awarded the restaurant three stars two years ago, and for a good reason – the sushi he serves are totally out of this world.
The secret, according to the chef, is in his hands. He uses his hands to control the temperature of the fish during slicing. That’s why he never goes out of the restaurant without wearing gloves, to maintain their sensitivity.
Toru Okuda is also another chef to consider. Owner of the popular Koju restaurant in the Ginsa district, he is a man who had persevered despite a difficult beginning. And now, he’s reaping his rewards. Michelin had awarded his restaurant three stars, the highest distinction ever. He is now among the elite chefs of Tokyo who have joined the ranks of the best in the world.
How do the Japanese chefs react to this great honor? Well, a lot of them aren’t happy about it. Some have even requested that their name be taken off the list. For them, their restaurants are only for their customers. Why should they cook for foreigners, and finicky foreigners at that?
Minoru Hanada, chef of Sakanadokoro Kuetsu, is among those people. This affable owner of a 10-seater counter-type restaurant says that he is honoured with the recognition, but prefers that he doesn’t receive it. His fish restaurant has been in good stead, thanks to his loyal customers, and he sees no reason why he should look for more customers.
Some people might say that the focus on Tokyo may be too much. The Kansai region (Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe) is the culinary belly of Japan. They serve more delicious food there compared to Tokyo.
Although the claims may have some basis, considering the smorgasbord of dishes conjured up by the chefs there, Tokyo would still have a place of its own. After all, most of the international restaurants are located in Tokyo. French, Italian, British, and even Mexican cuisine can be found there. And the verdict? All of them have this delicious quality in their cooking.
As a sample of how a typical Japanese dish is prepared, here’s a simple recipe that you can try at home – the ubiquitous Japanese bento (lunchbox). It may look too simple for you, but it’s actually a national art in Japan. Any chef worth his salt, and Michelin stars, would know how to make one. This recipe is the perfect as a take-away snack, or a meal in itself when partnered with rice. Of course, nothing beats the original, so if ever you get the chance to visit Japan, you can go ahead and sample their delicious cooking.
Satsuma-age (Deep-fried fish cakes)
Ingredients:
* 1 lb. (450g) aji horse mackerel fillets, bone and skin removed
* 1/2 lb. (230g) cod or pollock fillets, bone and skin removed
* 2 oz. (60g) gobo burdock root, shaved as if sharpening a pencil
* All-purpose dashi stock (happo dashi)
o Seasonings
o 1/3 cup (80ml) dashi stock
o 2 tsp. sake
o 1 tbsp. granulated sugar
o 1 1/2 tsp. soy sauce
o 1 1/4 oz. (40g) white miso
o Tamamoto (mix 1 large egg yolk and 1 tbsp. vegetable oil in a ramekin ahead of time)
* Vegetable oil for deep frying
* Grated ginger and grated wasabi as condiments
Makes 12 cakes
Directions
1. On a paper-lined sheet pan, lightly salt the mackerel fillets, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.
2. In a food processor, pulse and grind the fillets into a coarse paste. Transfer into a bowl and set aside.
3. Blanch the shavings of burdock root in the all-purpose dashi stock, drain and set aside.
4. Pulse the cod or pollock in a food processor, gradually adding 1/3 cup of the dashi stock. Add sake, sugar, soy sauce and white miso, then give a few more pulses. Transfer the mixture into a large bowl. Add the aji horse mackerel paste, the egg-oil mixture (tamamoto) and the burdock shavings. Mix well with rubber spatula. Make 12 oval cakes, about 2/3 inch (1.5cm) thick. Lay on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
5. To deep fry: In a large heavy saucepan, heat the oil to 340° F (170° C). Deep fry the cakes until golden brown, about 4-5 minutes. Transfer to a paper-lined plate to drain excess oil.
6. To serve: Cut each cake into quarters and arrange on a plate with the grated ginger and wasabi on the side. Serve soy sauce in individual small dishes for dipping the cakes.
All-purpose dashi stock (happo dashi)
* 1 quart (1L) dashi stock
* 1/4 cup (60ml) soy sauce
* 1 tsp sea salt or to taste
Combine all ingredients in a large bowl or container. Ladle out as needed.
Dashi
Dashi is the basis of Japanese soups, stews, stock concentrates and sauces, and the better your dashi, the more successful your meal will be. Powdered instant dashi is readily available, but it is simple to make your own – and avoid the additives often contained in those products.
The more refined dashi uses katsuo bonito flakes, which are not cheap, but excellent results can be had with niboshi dried small sardines, or ago flying fish. These produce a smokier flavor, which may be just what you want, especially in soup noodle dishes.
To make about 1 quart (1L) dashi stock: heat 1 quart (1L) water until tepid (86° F/30° C), then add in three 2×3 inch (5×7.5cm) strips of kombu kelp (about 0.7 oz/20g). Bring slowly to a simmer over 20-30 minutes. When simmering, immediately remove the kombu, skim the scum from the surface and bring to a boil.
Add 1/4 cup (60ml) of cold water to quell the bubbles and immediately lower the heat. Add in 2 oz. (60g) bonito flakes. When all bonito flakes have soaked up the liquid and the liquid has barely returned to the boil, turn off the heat. Leave for five minutes and strain through a sieve lined with a fine cloth, or a large coffee filter. Cool at room temperature without covering.
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