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Interview with Chef Najat Kaanache Amghiraf

  • Blanca Valbuena
  • January 3, 2011

Chef Najat Kaanche Amghiraf never expected to become a world renowned chef. Her life was leading her towards the big screen; she was working as an actress. The revelation happened and she rediscovered her love of food. She immediately switched gears and aimed for the top. Instead of going to any culinary school, Najat sent letters to the top restaurants in the world and soon got a positions with Francois Geurd at Ivy, Grant Achatz at Alinea and finally with Ferran Adria at El Bulli. Najat took some time in her hectic schedule to answer some of my questions via email about her love of food, her experience working with the best chefs in the world, motherhood and much more.

FriendsEAT: Najat, let’s start off with a little info about your life, where did you grow up and what foundation did your childhood set up for your love of food?

Chef Najat Kaanche Amghiraf: I was born in San Sebatian but I am from the mountains of Atlas in Morocco. I grew up picking olives one by one, I collected weeds in high temperatures. I took the dunkies and took the olives to the Moll so we could get oil for the year and the weed to crush it and make flour. My foundation is from the birth of each of the products to the end product. It is like getting 3 stars, I do no think the stars are the most important thing. No, my journey to get there is. The respect, love, determination and passion I got from my Mama is something I must  be thankful for the rest of my life. I come from a very poor family where we did not have electricity and had to walk 700 meters to get water  for drinking..that was my childhood; full of nature, surviving, values of respect for Hearth. I Grew up Biological ..and now is Fashion to be Biological….

FE: Who were the biggest influences in your cooking?

NKA: My Mamma, Grandmother, and the rest of the ladies in the Atlas mountains of Morocco in Taza.

FE: Where did you work before starting at El Bulli?

NKA: I had made a Journey Calendar, so I started at Alinea, then Noma, then back to Alinea. Then I stopped at The French Laundry and was sent by Thomas Keller To Perse New York. Then, all the way to El Bulli because I had a dream of working  with the best, who had challenged my Soul. Who had made me dream and show me that I was not crazy. I was just a passioned Chef looking for others to show me that I was correct feeling this way. I decided that cooking is not my job, but my life style. Each of those chefs gave me something that I needed to get to where I am and to become who I am. Every day I have each of them present on my daily job.

FE: You went from being an actor to working at El Bulli, what was the catalyst that brought you to such a drastic change in your life?

NKA: Hahahha, no so drastic, I found out that I had to please my Soul. So I had to look inside. I love to create, love to work with my hands. I had learned that from my grandmother in the mountains. I am a nomad.

FE: How exactly does one go about working at El Bulli, what did you have to do to get accepted?

NKA: Well I had waited 3 years and every week I emailed their office. Every week I sent them one email,  finally I got in.. My Job at this moment, is to assist Mateu Casanas a Head Chef who has worked for Ferran 17 years. He taught himself and Ferran is his Teacher. I am very lucky. My  Name is called every second of the day in The Pass to deliver the dishes that come out from my section.  Yes I have a Section,  it is incredible sometimes.  I can’t believe that I have my Section. Really, it is just a dream to be at El Bulli and to assist one of the most amazing brains At  El Bulli.  I do my best to make his job esay . He brings the best of me, challenges me, pushes me to the limit. He makes me improve very fast. Perhaps because I look for that and he knows that. One of the most beautiful things at EL BULLI  is that they share all they have, they like you to learn.

FE: Why did you pick El Bulli out of all the other restaurants that sent you acceptance letters?

NKA: I am not sure I need to answer this question but Ferran Adrian Is the only Chef in the earth who has created a change, who turned gastronomy to another level, another experimental point. The only one who was not afraid to do what he likes, believes and keep on going with what he believes. He has given more to gastronomy that any other Chef. People can say so many things about him. But Once you work next to him, see him how he eats, how he moves his face once he is eating then you understand him more and more. He is constantly challenging every one of his members.

FE: What preparations did you take before heading to El Bulli?

NKA: Alinea, Noma, The French Laundry, Perse; I was training the last 2  years and 6 months in these great places.

FE: Tell me a bit more about how the stagiair process works and what people need to do before taking on this role.

NKA: It depends on each person. I am a fighter and I love to learn, I ask my chef more than ten questions during the day. He answers me. He gives me that time. But I am the only one who does that. I am not afraid to be at EL Bulli, I like to learn and I must ask questions. My Job is to learn and their job is to teach me.

FE: What is the most valuable lesson you learned about cooking?

NKA: I  had learned that long time ago at the age of five when my Mama Told me: “You must cook with your Soul, from Your Soul and for a Soul” My mama, great Chef.

FE: What was the one thing that surprised you about the restaurant industry?

NKA: Sometimes it surprises me that people like to be rock stars and they are not able to make a great risotto. You need to  cook the base. Surprises me  that many chefs are not in contact  with Nature..or no much idea about the process of products.

FE: What misconceptions do you think aspiring chefs have about the industry?

NKA: People like to have results very fast and not work so hard, but it is the daily hard work that makes you get there.

FE: What was your cooking like before El Bulli and how have you seen it change during your time there?

NKA: This place is making me very creative, giving me more  possibilities to work with food. It is giving me the chance to learn how to make fun food in an elegant way.

FE: What is your favorite food to cook with and your favorite food to eat?

NKA: I do not have like favorite. I like all kinds and I love to work with the best products in the market. Also one more important thing with products they must be Biologic, I love to support farming.

FE: You have studied under some of the most well known chefs in the world, from your experiences, what is the most important thing an aspiring chef should do?

NKA: Follow their soul, cook with love, respect the products, be persistent, have tenacity, respect, and will for their Job.
That way the guest will feel the love that was put into their meal.

FE: Chef Adrià has brought what most call “Molecular gastronomy” to the forefron,  Where do you see this type of cuisine headed in the future?

NKA: Gastronomy is like anything that happens in the future. I can’t predict the Future. I can just Say that Ferran Adria, My Chef at this moment one of the best in the world. He will not stop creating, he will continue after he sings with Telefonica, he is a Soul. He will have one of the most important labs in the world. He will be able to investigate and have the time to go much deeply with the sources he needs to investigate. We should be so thankful to what he has done.

FE: What are your plans for the future? Where do you see yourself five years, ten years and twenty years from now?

NKA: Ok I am going to say this from my soul. I  have two chefs in my heart: Chef Grant Achatz & Thomas Keller. There both are part of who I am this days. Every Chef I know talks, they would all like to open their place. I have no rush. I like to work for a great chef and become a chef. To be a chef  is not to know how to make a “Beef steak”. No, you need to know about so many things, how to manage people, bring people together, take care of a team, make the best of it. Challenge them. I can’t see  my future, but I will fight to work hard and express my self with my flavors, the cultural background that I received and that I love so much. In a high level. I would love to see my self motivating females chefs.

FE: How do you feel about the rise in popularity of the culinary world, what do you want to see more of and what do you want to see change?

NKA: Fashion plays a big role in life.  But with food it is crazy that people think of it that way. I like to see more passion..millions of restaurants are opened every day, and some other millions are close every day. If you are a chef you cook every day, you love it..you create ..it is your life style. Is not fashion..then ..it is just in your blood.

FE: Although the traditional role of women in the home is that of a cook and nurturer, the culinary world has become male dominated. As a woman, you have made sacrifices to pursue your career. What has been the most arduous sacrifice and how has that been viewed by the industry and society?

NKA: Well to be honest, My biggest sacrifice was and is leaving my Daughter back home  in the care of her father’s family. Yes, if you are a mama all is more difficult but not impossible. I have traveled the last 3 years from one country to another, from one city to another, from a restaurant to another then home to another room and another bed ….. . Yes, I had no life we could say ..Bu I learned so much ..that all is really worth it to  be honest.
Society tells me many things: “She is a bad mama, because she doesn’t have her daugther with her”,   “She can’t be  a mama”,  “She will not make it”.  They told me so many things that nothing affects me……But I care. I do it all for her. She is the most precious thing I have I have. My Soul and My Daughter. I suffer every second not seeing her …but I live with that.  This is society, it is ridiculous that men have been doing this work for centuries  and leave the woman at home with 4 kids.  Now that there are women who do the same they are not good …Give me  a break …:)

Chef Najat Kaanche Amghiraf’s Bacalao al Pil Pil

Bacalao al Pil Pil is a traditional dish from the Basque Country (My Country); and is well known all over Spain, and popular with Spaniards and tourists alike. It is made with salt cod, garlic and olive oil. It is €œsabroso€ or tasty and although the pil pil sauce, which is an emulsion sauce can be tricky to thicken, there are some simple tricks at the bottom of this recipe.

Prep Time: 24 Hours and 10 minutes, Cook Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: 24 Hours and 30 minutes

Ingredients:

  • 2 lb (1 kg) boneless salt cod
  • 6 cloves garlic
  • 1 cup plus 3 Tbsp Spanish virgin olive oil
  • 1 small hot pepper or 1/2 jalapeno pepper

Preparation:

This Cod with Pil Pil Sauce makes 4 servings.

Note: The salted cod fish must be soaked in water for AT LEAST 24 hours, preferably 48 hours before cooking. This is necessary to leach out the salt. Change the water 2-3 times in a 24-hour period. If this is not done, the fish will be so salty that it will not be edible!

Cut the cod into smaller pieces, so it has more area to absorb the water. Rinse the pieces under cold water and rub the outside to remove excess salt.

Place the chunks of fish into a large (13€x9€) glass baking dish in a single layer. Add water to the dish until fish is completely covered by the water. Cover dish with plastic wrap and place in refrigerator. Change water 2-3 times over the next 24 hours.

Rinse the cod and pat dry with a paper towel. Remove any bones and cut into large pieces (3€x 3€).

Peel and cut garlic cloves into slices. Cut off tops of peppers and remove seeds. Then cut the peppers into rings and set aside.

In a heavy-bottom casserole dish or large open flame-proof clay dish, pour a few tablespoons of olive oil and heat on low. Sauté the garlic until the slices begin to brown. Remove garlic and set aside.

Allow the oil in pan to cool to lukewarm. When oil is cool, add the cod (skin side up) and begin to stir slowly the oil. Place the pan or casserole back on low heat and continue to stir the oil without stopping. Drizzle in the rest of the olive oil and continue to stir for approximately 10 to 15 minutes. Be sure to maintain the heat very low. The fish will release juices and those juices will mix with the oil and will form a thick emulsion. Place the garlic and pepper on top of the fish and allow to cool for 5 minutes and the pil pil sauce will thicken.

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