by Susan on 12/21/09 at 12:56 pm
Fruitcake doesn't have to be a hideous monstruosity
Fruitcakes have a bad rap. They’ve been the butt of jokes every Christmas season for decades, and are always passed over in favor of other desserts at the buffet table. No matter what it looks like or what it contains, the fruitcake suffers from a stigma that is hard to eradicate. Fruitcakes are abundantly available in almost every store and at every price point, and the average family receives at least one each season, usually from a well-meaning friend, relative or boss.
Of course, you never know how old the fruitcake is that you’ve been given, since they seem to last forever and are one of the most popular items on the re-gifting circuit. (For those who are stuck with one or more of these seasonal treasures, know that they can always be used as doorstops, scratching posts for cats or even as anchors for small boats. If you have two, they make great bookends.)
The fruitcake goes back to ancient Egypt
History tells us that fruitcakes originated in ancient Egypt. They were considered an essential food for the afterlife. Made of dried and candied fruit, nuts, and generous douses of brandy, rum or other strong and flavorful liquor, fruitcakes have been the incredible, inedible treat for generations.
What is it about these ingredients that when combined and baked, make such a maligned mealtime heirloom?
The most heinous ingredient seems to be citron, which is the candied rind of the fruit of the same name. The thick peel is strong tasting. Some people describe it as having the consistency of leather. Cakes that have a high proportion of citron are usually those that have the most staying power, with few fans. Yet, they’re also the most popular selling cakes. Go figure.
Candied fruit, such as cherries, pineapple and citrus rind, are also guilty ingredients when it comes to the fruitcake taste test. Made by first dipping or cooking pieces of fruit in syrup and then drying them, the candied fruit is often finished with a thick covering of granulated sugar.
Don’t blame the fruitcake – blame the recipe!
Traditionally, fruitcake usually contains citron and candied cherries, pineapple and rinds as part of the recipe, however, there is no rule against substituting your favorite dried fruits to please your own palate. The bottom line is, don’t blame the fruitcake – blame the recipe! If you dislike a particular combination of ingredients, feel free to swap and substitute. Try raisins, dates, figs, dried cherries, blueberries, apricots or cranberries. Use any combination of nuts of your liking, including pecans, walnuts, almonds or cashews.
The ratio of fruit and nuts to batter is very high. You only need enough to hold everything together. What comes out of the oven is a very dense and heavy cake, which is why fruitcakes have jokingly been described as bookends and doorstops.
Even Charles Dickens commented about fruitcakes, calling it “a geological homemade cake” in Martin Chuzzlewit.
All joking aside, fruitcakes are a traditional holiday treat, so if you haven’t been the recipient of one this year, there is still time to make one for your Christmas dinner, one over which you have control. FriendsEat.com has several recipes waiting for your testing and review. Try one this week!
Italian Fruitcake with Frangelico Chocolate Sauce
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