by Spence Cooper on 12/28/09 at 10:00 am
Top sparklers to greet the new year
Technically speaking, champagne is produced exclusively within the Champagne region of northeastern France, from which it takes its name. But there are many fine champagne-like beverages produced in places like Northern California and Spain that are comparable in quality.
The primary grapes used in the production of champagne are Chardonnay, Pinot noir and Pinot Meunier. In an effort to accommodate a wide range of budgets, we have assembled a list of ten gorgeous sparkling wines priced from $250 to $12. Often times ones champagnes preference is discretionary. For instance, I enjoy a fifty dollar bottle of Brut Reserve over the more expensive Taittinger, really it’s up to you and your tongue.
1. Champagne Philipponnat
1998 Clos des Goisses Brut
Price: $250
This prestigious vintage Champagne from the village of Mareuil sur Ay, France, is made from mostly Pinot Noir, which is blended with a lesser amount of Chardonnay. What makes this label unique is that all the grapes used to make the wine were grown in a single walled-in vineyard: The Clos des Goisses. Champagne Philipponnat has the distinction of being only one of two Houses with this type of vineyard-exclusive Champagne. Lightly dosed and showing a lively, noticeably mineral character, this amber-tinted Champagne exudes fruit jam scents with hints of rose petal, sandalwood and almonds. A fleshy palate displaying honey, aniseed, almond and old brandy flavors follows the aromatics. Pairs well with mushrooms, cheese and caviar.
2. Dom Perignon 2000
Price: $150
Fresh, crystalline, and sharp, the first nose unveils an unusual dimension, an aquatic vegetal world with secret touches of white pepper and gardenia. The wine then reveals airy, gentle richness before exhaling peaty scents. On the palate, the attack bursts forth, and matures into a sensual fullness that winds around itself, like a tendril of foliage. Notes of aniseed and dried ginger linger on the skin of fruit (pear and mango), more textured than ripe. The finish gradually unfurls and then settles, smooth, mellow, all-encompassing.
3. Champagne Pol Roger
1999 Vintage Brut
Price: $100
From start to finish, this top quality vintage follows a straight line. It starts with freshness and explodes into richness. This initial very tight structure soon opens out with white pears and green plums, soft and ripe. The fruit is supported by the structure which offers orange zest. Like many 1999s, this is almost ready to drink. Wine Tasting Notes: The aromas are floral, sweet and fresh, with toasted brioche notes. In the mouth, the texture is at once velvety and dense, with developing flavors of candied yellow fruits, quince and marzipan, with notes of flowers and pepper. There’s an overall character of precision and finesse.
4. Champagne Taittinger
N.V. Prélude Grands Crus
Price: $90
A subtle, fresh nose of mineral, floral and elderflower scents complements this Champagne’s white peach and citrus flavors and expressive finish. This is Taittingers grand cru nonvintage release. Medium straw, with bright highlights. Creamy, vanilla-laced apple, pear and buttered toast aromas are lush and clearly etched. A medium-bodied wine with dense orchard fruit and mango flavors complemented by floral honey and baking spice notes. Finishes juicy and long.
5. Alfred Gratien Brut Classique
Price: $70
A hand-crafted blend of 60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, and 10% Pinot Meunier. Alfred Gratien only uses grapes from the best crus of the Cote des Blancs, the Montagne de Reims, and the Marne Valley. Like all of Alfred Gratien’s Champagnes, the base wine was fermented and aged in small oak casks for 6 months. Tasting Notes: Light golden color. Fine long-lasting bubbles. Pleasant aromas of citrus and stone fruits (apricots and peaches). A fresh and balanced palate with beautiful biscuit flavors. Very complex with a lingering fruit finish.
6. Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve
Price: $50
Experience a fully developed wine, with a radiant bouquet that is captivating yet subtle. Although notes of fully ripe fruit, such as nectarines and cherry plums, are apparent initially, the finish reveals the wealth of the gourmet world, hinting at nougat, honey and cereal grains. This wine is remarkably smooth and generous on the palate. Three years of maturation have given it body and substance. As the wine opens up, it is full and intense with notes of warm bread blending harmoniously with discreet notes of ginger and coriander. The grapes used are selected from the top crus in the Champagne region: 34% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Meunier.
7. Ayala Brut Majeur
Price: $40
A beautifully balanced non-vintage, in the lighter style that is Ayala’s hallmark. It is fresh, but shows a good amount of blend with older wines to give weight and complexity. The green fruit flavors are well balanced with secondary aromas of almonds, green berries and lively but not dominant acidity. Ayala’s sparkler is a gorgeous compliment to lobster, blue cheeses and even figs, making it not only delicious but a versatile food pairing.
8. Pol Roger Brut Réserve
Price: $35
Dusty and smoky on the nose, on the mouth, it makes you think of green apple, flowers and just a touch of citrus; like lemon peel. The floral notes are accented by spice and herbs that bring out the classic champagne notes. The acidity in this bottle of Champagne causes the tongue to salivate and to make you want to swallow immediately. The finish is light and easy, with a hint of sweetness to delight your palate.
9. Roederer Estate Brut, Anderson Valley
Price: $20
While not technically a Champagne, this bottle of bubbly is just as nice and costs less than half the price. It’s a rounder style of sparkling wine marked by notes of pear and walnuts. You may also get hints of apple cinnamon, an enticing yeastiness and some notes of flan and creme brulee that come from the minimal malolactic fermentation it undergoes. Complex, delicious and inexpensive, this is the smart way to start off the new year.
10. Freixenet Brut Nature
Price: $12
From Spain where they call sparklers “cava”. A value for the money. Freixenet makes many of the best cavas, and this one is very dry and smooth. Complex nose with distinct notes of hazelnuts and fruit, particularly apple, Freixenet Brut Nature features a mature, fruit-dominant palate, crowned by an elegant finish. Plus, you won’t feel bad making some tasty cocktails out of this one.

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